The Coral Coast

12th June 2011
Leaving by 8am this morning we made our way to the Northern suburbs of Perth to an Anglican church at Kallaroo. After church we headed up the coast to the Gin Gin Gravity Discovery Centre. Part of an international matrix of observation centres which use gravity waves to observe deep space, the centre is currently bidding for a scientific centre which will bring thousands of the top minds from around the world to this remote part of Western Australia. Apparently the research being conducted is on the cusp of a huge discovery which could revolutionise clean affordable energy worldwide. They have some great hands-on exhibits which kept Jayden and I busy for hours. The highlight was probably the leaning tower of Gin Gin off which you drop a water balloon to demonstrate Sir Isaac Newton's discovery that objects of different weights and sizes will fall at the same rate.




We finished our visit with a solar system walk. This was a little deceptive as the scale for the distance of the planets from the sun was different to the scale for the size of the planets. A short drive brought us to our very busy free-camp site. We managed to squeeze in and then met the neighbours around the campfire. After dark we were spooked by a couple of feral cats scavenging in the garbage bin beside Frankie. The local hoons put in an appearance doing doughnuts throughout he carpark. Fishtailing it out of the camp area they skidded across the road and landed themselves in a ditch. Many of the campers came to gloat at their stupidity. With a carpark full of 4WDs, unsurprisingly given his behaviour, no one offered to go and tow him out. A passing ute eventually stopped and dragged him out and he sedately drove off.
13th June 2011
Off early again today past open plains dotted with emus and roos, our initial destination was The Pinnacles Desert Discovery Centre in Namburg National Park. After browsing the displays we took the 1.2km loop track through the Pinnacles Desert. It is quite a surreal experience walking amongst the limestone pillars through the shifting yellow sands.




Feeling like I was on Mars we battled the strong nor-easterly winds which whipped up the sand. We'd driven past towering white sand dunes which are moving at a rate of 10 metres per year and were quickly covering the highway with rippling sand patterns to arrive here, so the yellow sand of the desert was in stark contrast to the surrounding dunes. A couple of predominate theories exist about the formation of The Pinnacles, but scientists can't reach a consensus. In both theories however, the pinnacles were formed beneath ground from the varied influence of acidic water as it percolated through the soil profile, first leaching then accreting calcium carbonate into interesting and diverse forms. As the vegetation stabilising the silicate sand was removed, probably by fire, the sand was blown away exposing the pinnacles to the elements of the atmosphere. The pinnacles were further sculptured by wind, rain and the blistering sun into what we see today.
From there we took a side shoot to Kangaroo Point in the hope of finding wildflowers. There were a couple blooming but not the profusion which abound in a couple of months time. The next point of interest on the road into Cervantes was the Lake Thetis stromatolites. The small saline lake is one of only a few places in the world with living marine stromatolites, or 'living fossils'. Credited with creating an oxygen rich atmosphere in which other lifeforms could evolve, scientists are astounded by the similarities between these living forms of cyanobacteria and fossils purportedly dated at 3500 million years old making them the earliest record of life on earth. The lake's stromatolites have been dated to 3370 years old and are believed to have become isolated from the sea around 4800 years ago when sea levels dropped and coastal dunes formed around the lake.
Cervantes itself is a fairly nondescript fishing village famous for it's rock lobsters. Opting to support this industry I purchased a half lobster tail to have as entree that night. Jay and I both attacked it before dinner. It was nice enough but not worth the big dollars you have to pay for them. Another camper had raved about the beauty of Jurien Bay but with the wind whipping up the harbour it was pretty ordinary as we passed through. Down a very corrugated dirt road we bumped to our campsite at Sandy Cape. The caretakers twelve year old daughter quickly spotted another child and joined us on our exploration of the huge white sand dunes backing the campsite.




I left Jay and Paris exploring the rock pools and skidding down the sand dunes and took a stroll along the beach to watch my first WA sunset. With a storm brewing out to sea there was a bit too much cloud on the horizon as the sun sank into the waters of the bay. During the night the storm made landfall bringing rain and more wild winds.




14th June 2011
We didn't make it far up the highway today. Awaking to a wet and blustery day I thought it might be best if we just moved up to a free camp site about a hundred k's up the road to wait out the weather. This part of the coast is called the Turquoise Coast and is meant to be scenically stunning but in the rainy weather the sea is more of a churned up green-grey and the coastal villages just look dreary. Going via Lesueur National Park, a biodiversity hotspot with 900 different species of flowering plant, I'd hoped to see some elusive wildflowers.




There were a few about but this area was hit hard by wildfires in January/February of this year and much of the park was just blackened and charred. Driving through Green Head we stopped for a hot chocolate and cake to warm up our bones. At 15 degrees and with a nasty wind chill factor I really can't wait to hit the warm weather all the people travelling south have been bragging about. Just after 3:00pm we pulled into Cliff Head North campsite. Looking straight out over the Indian Ocean this would be a great spot on a clear day to watch the sunset. Quickly we became acquainted with a couple and their three girls from Grose Vale. I spent a pleasant afternoon sipping peppermint tea and chatting with them about their travels.
15th June 2011
With the sky clearing towards a sunny day we joined the Dehaan's for a stroll along the waters edge and past some limestone caves the kids had found the previous day. A quick detour into Port Denison to buy bread and then it was on to Ellendale Pool. Looking like I had imagined WA to look like with red/yellow escarpments and white gums beside a freshwater pool, Ellendale Pool is a lovely oasis amid the rolling hillside pastures.




We joined some seniors up from Perth in a game of bocce. Jay spent the rest of the afternoon entertaining a dalmatian by the name of Bindy, throwing sticks into the water for her to swim out and retrieve and taking her for walks around the campsite. A young couple from Menai arrived late in the afternoon and set up camp next to us. They are travelling around with a view to helping remote communities through a program called Frontier Services organised through the Uniting church. Basically if someone has a need they can lodge a request through the program and anyone with the appropriate skills can put up their hand to help out. They had recently helped build shearing quarters for a farmer with cancer who has been too sick to shear his sheep this year and needed to get in shearers to do the job. To do so though he had to provide them with accommodation. It sounds like a great way to serve others as you travel and I would like to look into it myself.
16th June 2011
Rumours abounded about a lunar eclipse overnight. Setting the alarm for 11:45pm I traipsed out into the cold night air and stood staring up at the full moon until the cold had seeped in and my neck was too stiff to continue. Disappointed I returned to my warm bed. This morning Bindy's master Brian mentioned that he'd awoken early and looked out around 5am. Sure enough he got a perfect view of the full lunar eclipse. Even more frustrating is that I was lying awake at that time anyway but didn't get back up. We arrived in Geraldton and after stopping in at the information centre continued up to the HMAS Sydney II Memorial.




This unique and captivating sculpture and wall of names remembers the over 300 lives that were lost when a German boat attacked the Sydney about 130km offshore from the Geraldton coastline. Both boats went down, and it wasn't until some of the German survivors came ashore, and were welcomed by the locals who couldn't understand their language but couldn't imagine that the war would come so close to home, that Australia learned of the tragic loss. The memorial is steeped in symbology which the volunteer guide explained as we moved around the site. From there we enjoyed a walk along the recently reclaimed foreshore area which had been hiding the lovely harbour area from the city centre with rail lines into the port. It was then a mad dash out to the airport for a tour of the Bureau of Meteorology's weather station. After learning about the different instruments, we observed the release of a nitrogen filled weather balloon and subsequently tracked it on the radar.




Working in the station must be a lonely job as we couldn't shut the meteorologist up and eventually made an excuse to leave. We completed a rather full day with a visit to the WA Museum specifically to learn about three Dutch ships, including the Batavia, which were shipwrecked on the Western Australian coastline in the 15th and 16th centuries. It is intriguing to think that white settlers may have integrated with Aboriginal tribes long before Captain Cook claimed Australia for the British crown. After a mostly fruitless couple of hours at the library and Maccas to access WiFi we gave up and settled for the night at Belair Gardens caravan park near the Point Moore lighthouse. I had however been successful in tracking down Andrew, Wendy and Lachlan Burr who I knew had moved to a ministry in the North West Diocese of the Anglican church. I was surprised to learn that they were here in Geraldton as I'd thought they would be further up the coast. They replied to my text message and we arranged for us to meet them for dinner the following night.
17th June 2011
Another stock up in the supermarket as this would likely be the last Coles for a while and then it was down to St George's Beach where Jayden completed his schoolwork and played in the park until it was time to head over for dinner. Thoughtfully Andrew had rounded up a friend for Jayden to play with, Jack, son of assistant minister Cameron. It was delightful to see Wendy again after almost a decade. It didn't take long to become comfortable in each others company and pick up where we'd left off. In fact we chatted for so long that Wendy ran out of time to prepare dinner and Andrew picked up pizzas so that Lachlan wouldn't be late for his soccer match. When he returned victorious we were still at it. We retired to Frankie who was happily parked in the Burr's backyard.




18th June 2011
Once the sun had crested the horizon we went for a beachside walk. Jay excitedly lead Bega, their ten year old Labrador. He wasn't quite so enthusiastic about taking the plastic bag that came with the duty and made sure Bega was kept too busy to have time to stop for morning ablutions. I was delighted to be able to help out with a couple of odd jobs around the home and the church property in the morning. I've been really keen to offer service to churches that we visit and it seemed easier to do so where a relationship was already established.




This afternoon Andrew took us for a scenic drive out to Northampton before he and Wendy took the chance to take in a movie and dinner whilst I held the fort. Jay and I watched Evan Almighty which I found quite amusing.
19th June 2011
Regretting that I wouldn't get to hear Andrew preach as he was filling in at Northampton I accompanied Wendy to St George's Bluff Point. All too soon our visit was at an end and we bid farewell and kept trekking north. Stopping in at Horrocks for lunch Jayden couldn't resist throwing a line in off the pier after seeing the huge fish, possibly tailor, just sitting in the current next to the jetty. They weren't hungry though and he soon gave up.




I'd been looking forward to seeing Pink Lake which looks quite spectacular in the glossy tourist brochure but the map I had showed it to be in a different place to where it actually is and we only got to see it from a distance after missing the turnoff. By 3:30pm we were in camp at Wagoe chalets (great description for a fibro box) and caravan park. Jay invited the grandchildren of the park owners down to play which freed me up for a walk over the extensive sand dunes down to the beach. There were plenty of interesting tracks running through the sand including what looked like goanna tracks and a turtle nesting site. The sunset was pretty good tonight but with cloud near the horizon I am still to see the sun dip into the ocean.
20th June 2011
Great day today! As we sat and ate breakfast we could see the humpback whales cavorting around out at sea. It was hard to get anything done as my eyes kept scanning the ocean for the telltale spout or ginormous splash as they breached. After breakie we wandered back down into the dunes so I could show Jay all the interesting animal tracks in the sand. The surf was pounding the rock platform down by the beach sending plumes of water twenty metres or more into the air. Very spectacular. Maintaining our northerly bearing we toured the coastal cliffs of Kalbarri National Park. Starting with Natural Bridge which as the name suggest is an archway of limestone jutting into the ferocious waves of the Indian Ocean.




From there we walked around by the boardwalk to Island Rock. We continued to sight whales spouting and jumping all over the place as we followed the cliff edge. In the waters at the base of the cliffs a large pod of Common Dolphins played in the waves beyond the breakers. A little further up the road was Shellhouse Grandstand which, funnily enough, looked like grandstand seating as it stepped up the hillside. Eagle Gorge provided more scenic shots including the attractive Murchison Rose. By the time we arrived at Rainbow Valley the tummies were rumbling so we had some lunch before beginning the 3km nature trail loop walk. From the carpark it didn't look like much but as we wound our way down through ancient stream beds the beauty became evident with layers of multicoloured rocks, fossilised worm holes and stunning views up and down the coast.




We almost missed Mushroom Rock by walking the loop in the wrong direction but soon spotted it when we turned back around. A couple of rock wallabies were grazing amongst the red rocks. From there we headed straight into town and the visitors centre. Oriented to the local services we booked into Anchorage caravan park set on the edge of the Murchison River.
21st June 2011
Happy Birthday Mum!
Knowing we had a full day of hiking in front of us we got going quickly to the Kalbarri National Park gorges. Bumping and rattling our way along 26km of corrugated dirt road we finally arrived at Natures Window.




This stunning natural features makes the perfect frame for pictures of the Murchison River far below. Embarking upon the 8km loop track, we headed along the ridge line above the river. Ever mindful of snakes camouflaged on the red rocky path I was glad not to encounter any. Along the route we did however see a gorgeous red-headed honeyeater and on the rocky slopes down by the river a couple of feral goats. Definitely not a hike to do in the summer months we were soon hot and sweaty down in the gorge where temperatures are regularly 10 degrees warmer than on the ridges above.




With the promise of ladders and interesting scenery we made our way to Z Bend. This part of the gorge was quite different to our morning walk 8km's downstream being much more closed in. It was very pleasant to soak our feet in the cool river at the bottom. With daylight quickly running out on this the shortest day of the year I had to forgo the last couple of tourist walks at Hawks Head and Ross Graham so we could make our campsite at Galena Bridge on a more open part of the Murchison River amid pastoral land before dark.
22nd June 2011
After a long, slow (because I couldn't get fifth gear) and uninteresting drive we arrived in Denham. We booked into accommodation in Monkey Mia then had a look around the World Heritage Discovery Centre. Shark Bay is one of only twenty places worldwide that satisfied all four of the natural criteria for a World Heritage listing.
* Natural Beauty
* Earth's History
* Ecological Processes
* Biological Diversity
We moved onto Monkey Mia and settled into camp. As the sun began to dip towards the horizon we wandered across to the beach to catch the sunset. The bay looked amazing! Calm, shallow crystal clear waters stretched off into the distance with barely a ripple.




Whilst we didn't spot any dolphins this afternoon we did see some shovel headed rays sitting in the shallows. A research team are in residence in the caravan park from universities around the world and we attended a viewing of the BBC documentary about Puck and her new calf Samu in the conference room. With an amazingly clear and lightless sky beckoning we set up our towels on the beach and gazed at the brilliant Milky Way. Feeling drowsy and with a chill creeping in we headed back to Frankie for the night.
23rd June 2011
With trepidation we strolled down to the beach for the morning dolphin feed. Other travellers had advised us against driving all the way into Monkey Mia with tales of dissatisfaction at the new methods being employed with the dolphins. Lining up on the boardwalk behind the beach with a hundred or so other travellers and holiday makers we patiently awaited the dolphins' arrival. After a time we were invited onto the sand and given instruction about how the feed would progress. Moving en-masse into the water so the dolphins would hear our arrival, we stood in the cool waters for half an hour scanning the waters for sign of movement. Eventually two of the five feeding dolphins and their calves arrived. Buckets of carefully weighed fish were brought to the beach and a lucky few were selected to give the dolphins their fish. Jay was selected and eagerly went forward.




Gone are the bad old days when tourists could buy a bucket of fish from the kiosk and stand around feeding the dolphins to their hearts content. This led to the dolphins hanging around the beach all day long which resulted in the death of many calves as they were unable to suckle properly in the shallow waters. Diseases were passed along to the dolphins from all the contact, some of the male dolphins in particular became quite aggressive and those sharp teeth, perfectly designed for gripping fish, latched onto a few human hands. Some despicable individuals thought it was a laugh to jam cigarette butts and bottle tops into the dolphin's blowholes. I thought the DEC's management of the area now is very reasonable and responsible. After the dolphins have had their first feed they head into deeper waters to feed the young dolphins who are dependent on mum's milk until they are three to four years old.




They usually head back into the beach shortly after for the second feed. This is a great one to go to as most of the crowds have left. The dolphins can come in for a third feed but often don't. The feeding can only happen between 8am and 12noon. The DEC then keep an eye on things for the rest of the day. If the dolphins are hanging around the beach area they will ask beachgoers to move away to encourage the dolphins to head back out into the bay. It seems to be working well. One of the feeding dolphins, Nicky, who had spent her whole life around the beach and lost seven calves is now taking good care of her son Fin. Most of the dolphins bare the scars of shark attack from tiger sharks which come into the bay when the dolphins and dugongs are giving birth. Whilst waiting for the second feed we watched a documentary about dolphins around the world. After lunch we boarded the catamaran Shotover in search of wildlife in the bay. We observed spotted rays, shovel headed rays, green and loggerhead turtles as well as dolphins. Sadly the dugongs had moved to warmer waters for the moment. Shark Bay supports 10% of the worlds dugong population with vast seagrass meadows in the shallow waters of the bay for them to graze on. We finished the day with a complimentary sunset cruise.




The fun didn't stop with the coming of night. We enjoyed a special dinner in the restaurant. Jay bravely ordered the outback dish of kangaroo, crocodile and emu with damper. They had run out of emu but he enjoyed the other meats. I went for the land and sea, a big slab of beef with prawns, scallops and a whole squid. Dinner was a bit rushed as we wanted to attend a kids talk presented by the research team. Jay gave some very intelligent answers and asked some great questions. Exhausted both mentally and physically our beds were very inviting.
24th June 2011
We again enjoyed the first two dolphin feeds this morning. I was selected this time to feed Surprise. We packed up and Jay had a quick dip in the hot tub before moving on. Stopping at Ocean Park we enjoyed a very informative tour of the marine tanks by a young marine biologist. It culminated with feeding the sharks.




A hundred k's down the road, which up here is still the local neighbourhood, we stopped at Eagle Bluff, a lookout which gives a great view of the shallow waters of the bay. Often sharks and dugongs are sighted from here although we didn't see any wildlife. Our last stop along the World Heritage drive was to Shell Beach. Here bivalve shells are piled up to five metres high and have been mined as shell grit. Apart from lining the budgie cage it is fed to chooks to produce harder shelled eggs.




Another couple of hundred k's of nothing and we arrived at Edagee rest area just on sunset. Already very crowded we squished into a site for the night.
25th June 2011
The wind blew in overnight and brought some much needed rain to the area. We arrived in a soggy Carnarvon with more clutch problems. If I hadn't been so far from home I'd have given up and gone home at this point. With that not an option I contacted NRMA and sorted out accommodation in Coral Coast tourist park. At the local produce market I met Brian senior minister for the Anglican church in Carnarvon. After introducing myself and relating the connection with Norwest Anglican and the Burrs in Geraldton I asked how I could serve them. I was invited to come along with Jay to Kids Club that afternoon as an extra set of hands. A combined undertaking with the other churches in town the club caters to around forty mostly non-churched children.
26th June 2011
We were warmly welcomed at church this morning. I was surprised to hear how many have only been in town relatively short times or are itching to get out. The heat, dust and lack of rain definitely take their toll. The rest of the day was spent reshuffling the summer and winter wardrobes around and catching up with all the travellers we'd befriended over the previous weeks as they rolled into town.
27th June 2011
Today was a frustration of communication breakdowns as I attempted to sort out Frankie's repairs. This evening sees us in one of the parks cabins awaiting a diagnosis. Hopefully it isn't terminal!
28th June 2011
Sitting in on a Year 5 science class at the School of the Air this morning was very interesting. The teacher opted not to let the kids know we were there as they tend to clam up if they know others are listening in. The remoteness of some of the properties they live on is astounding. Hundreds of kilometres of dirt road which can become impassable after a bit of rain just to get to the nearest town. The kids are from a very diverse range of backgrounds from game fishing on Dirk Hartog Island and a surf community at Red Bluff which cater to the growing tourism industry to a cattle station and kangaroo shooters in the dusty interior of the state. No longer done by radio, families who want to be schooled this way are provided a satellite dish and computer by the WA Government. The kids only connect in for one 45min lesson each day and the rest of their learning is done by bookwork through distance education with Mum, Dad or a tutor overseeing.




The afternoon was spent riding out to one mile jetty and then back along the tramline into town. As we rode through town we ran into the Bakers again who had finally caught up with us after some speaking engagements in Perth and Geraldton.
29th June 2011
I'm really not very good at waiting. After a big downpour overnight there was a lot of water lying around this morning so we spent the day reading and doing puzzles. Already I'm itching to be moving again and the news that Frankie wouldn't be ready until Friday morning only added to my discontent.
30th June 2011
At least being stuck in one place has allowed us to get some quality schooling done without the pressure to get done by a certain time each morning. I teamed up with another Mum this afternoon and we each took a turn of watching the kids while the other got out on there own for a while. I went riding into the plantation area along the Gascoyne River stopping at a place that makes ice blocks (I had strawberry) out of fresh fruit. This afternoon was an afternoon tea at the caravan park to raise money for flood relief.
1st July 2011
Waiting, waiting, waiting! We had to be out of the cabin by 10am this morning. The mechanic had promised Frankie would be ready between 10 and 12. So at 3pm with the day quickly fading and the park quickly filling it wasn't looking good. Finally around 3:30pm I was clear to pick him up. Hopefully this time the work will last. The clutch is much tighter, I'm going to end up with one very overdeveloped calf muscle on the left leg but at least he's running. Being so late in the day I really didn't have a choice but to stay put one more night.
At least Jay has had a good week. He befriended Jessica and Tahj who are in town while Dad does some plumbing work, and has spent plenty of time playing and watching DVD's.
2nd July 2011
After many hugs and fond goodbyes from Jessica, Tahj and Maddison we were finally on the move again. We stopped in at Coral Bay for lunch. The bay itself was very picturesque although the resort was a bit busy and touristy for my liking.




Allured by the turquoise and aqua waters we tried our hand at snorkelling. I started out just supporting Jay around the waist as we walked parallel to the beach. He soon regained his confidence and took off. So close to shore there wasn't much coral to see but plenty of big fish to chase after. Although the water was warm the wind was cool so we didn't last long. At 3:30 each day the spangled Emperors come in for a feed which we joined before continuing along.




We drove until just before sunset then stopped about 10km south of Exmouth for an early dinner and an early night.
3rd July 2011
With the alarm set for 2:30am I awoke a little before and moved Jay into the front and set off for the entrance to Cape Range National Park. We arrived around 3:30am and not a moment too soon as a ute pulled in behind us about ten minutes later. As we waited for dawn we listened to Peter Pan on audio book but tragically the iPad died and we couldn't resurrect it despite it supposedly being fully charged. Grateful that I'd woken and moved before my alarm went off to make the front of the queue there was only one vacancy that morning so we got in. Feeling somewhat guilty as I left the queue of eleven vehicles behind me I made a beeline for Yardies Creek to secure our site with hosts Ken and Margaret. With plenty of day ahead of us we explored the beach and sussed out a good fishing spot at the mouth of Yardie's Creek. Whilst we didn't pull in anything substantial we had fun landing Emperors, something spotty, something stripey, a trevally and a flathead.
Lacing up our hiking boots we took the gorge track up Yardie's Creek. Red cliffs lined the gorge and we were fortunate to spot some endangered black footed rock wallabies in amongst the rocky gorge walls.




Other wildlife spotted today were euros (a type of wallaroo), nankeen kestrels, sea eagles and a gorgeous butcher bird with the most amazing song. The day was nicely rounded off with exploration of the limestone rock platform revealed at low tide and a glass of red as the sun melted into the calm bay sheltered from the pounding Indian Ocean by the extensive Ningaloo Reef.
4th July 2011
Overnight the clouds rolled in and the wind whipped up. We awoke to a cold, blustery and occasionally wet day, certainly not the balmy tropical reef adventure I'd been imagining. We were delighted to be able to move into Mesa camp today which secures our stay in the Cape Range NP for up to 28 days. It was so windy we didn't even venture out of Frankie to investigate our surrounds until after lunch. We introduced ourselves to the Smedley family then drove down to the visitors centre. Plenty of informative displays and video presentations filled in our afternoon. On returning to camp we joined the Smedley's for a walk to Ned's camp.




Feeling that I should at least have a look at the bay I wandered down over the dunes only to be assaulted by windblown sand pelting my legs. Frankie continued to be buffeted around into the evening making it feel more like we were on a boat than a bus.
5th July 2011
As the day progressed the wind abated so that by lunchtime it was calm enough to try some snorkelling. With the Smedley's as our guides we wandered down the beach to a bombie about 20 metres offshore. Whilst only a small site there was a plethora of unusual tropical fish. Occasionally we'd swim through a deliciously warm eddy like I'd expected from the Leeuwin current but mostly it was very cold. Even in his wetsuit Jay didn't last long so I set him ashore and explored on my own until I feared the cold might cause me to cramp.
Despite his best efforts the Smedley children were pretty mean and obnoxious towards Jay resulting in confusion and tears. He just couldn't understand how someone could be so horrid to another person as he's never encountered it before. With a bit of cloud cover and the wind finally taking a break I sat on the dunes with a glass of red to watch the sunset.




6th July 2011
This morning we were able to transfer into Ned's Camp. Nestled in amongst the sand dunes it is much more sheltered from the wind. Immediately we clicked with the other campers. Jay dissappeared with the kids to a secret cubby house as I helped Heather, Ian and Sally move off my site and into a new one.
The wind continued to blow, so after lunch Jay and I rode our bikes to the Milyering visitors centre to watch "Going With the Flow - Tracking the Leeuwin Current". I understand now why the water is unseasonably cold. The prevailing offshore gale is blowing the warmer currents out to sea allowing the colder southern currents to run up the coast.
With Jayden happily playing I took a walk up the beach. Beachcombing here is interesting with today's walk revealing a nudibranc, cowrie shells, sea urchins and interesting rocks imbedded with shells.




Tonights sunset was amazing. The wind had died down, dolphins frolicked in the calm waters and the sky was ablaze with colour. Happy hour over, we all retired to our campsites for the night.
7th July 2011
I'm staring to see a pattern here. Around midnight I could hear the wind roaring across the ranges and we were soon rocking and rolling again. During the morning I took a long walk along the beach. The whale shark boats and spotter planes were just beyond the reef. Sunning in the shallows was an orange and blue spotted ray. Up in the dunes the shelled remains of a turtle nest poked out of the sand.




The walk was hard work as I kept sinking up to mid-shin in the soft sand. In the afternoon we tried snorkelling off the beach at Ned's but it was mainly seagrass and rocks with nary a fish in sight. Jay built a cubby under the boardwalk across the dunes only to have another mother pull it apart, not realising the DEC guy had given Jay the OK. We then had a team effort to rebuild. Before we knew it was happy hour and we bid farewell to another day on the range.
8th July 2011
We spent a bit of time getting to know our neighbours the Mellers this morning. Jay pottered around with them on the beach and had a go with their rods fishing for squid whilst I took another stroll up the beach. At least twelve rays were enjoying the warm sun this morning. After lunch we drove to Turquoise Bay for snorkelling. There was a huge variety of tropical fish and corals just metres from the shore.




The water seemed a little warmer this afternoon but still too chilly to stay in for extended periods. We were axcited to see a red firefish and a giant cuttlefish amongst the beautiful and varied marine creatures. Having discovered Ningaloo I would choose it over The Great Barrier Reef for ease of access, the natural uncrowded beaches and lack of tourism operators any day. The roos were out in numbers as we carefully returned to our campsite. I joined with Graeme, Michelle and another couple for a more intimate happy hour. We'd been given some fresh fish for dinner which was delicious steamed in foil with ginger marmalade smeared over the top.
9th July 2011
During the night the clouds rolled in making for a grey Saturday morning. As it wasn't looking good for snorkelling we were delighted when Roger Meller and son Mason invited us to go fishing with them on their boat. Jay was so excited he was bouncing around the campsite as we prepared to leave. Going out behind the reef they soon had two yellow-fin tuna on the line. They were putting up a fight and as they were landing the first the second was being chased by a 3 metre long shark which ultimately bit through the metal trace taking the fish and a $20 lure. With hearts hammering we found a spot which the fancy sensor onboard assured us had plenty of fish below and dropped some bottom lines in. During the course of the day we pulled in 2 cods which when release suffered from barra trauma as a result of being pulled to the surface too fast (a bit like the bends in humans). Mason hauled in a huge, beautiful tropical cod about 75cm long and in a split decision when Jay thought it was an endangered potato cod it was released. We later learned that it was a rankin cod possibly one of the tastiest fish you could pull up. I pulled in a sweetlips emperor which just made the size limit. Disappointingly the tuna was full of parasite eggs so it became bait. We had another run in with a shark which, after we'd pulled in our lines, signalled our departure. The most amazing part of the day for me were all the whales. We had spouts and humps, fin flaps and tail waves all around the boat continually. A beautiful minke whale circled us for a while before continuing on it's way. Back at camp the grey skies and occasional drizzle persisted. Happy hour commenced but was soon washed out. We have met so many lovely people at Ned's I'm reluctant to leave but after a week in Cape Range it's time to move on. I hope I'll get to return sometime.




10th July 2011
Bidding farewell to Cape Range National Park we made our way back into Exmouth. I was trying to find the Anglican church but they weren't where my info suggested so I ended up in and AoG church on the dot of 9am. We contemplated moving but decided given the timing and the fact that Frankie was making strange new noises that this is where God had led us this morning. The singing was very uplifting and whilst the sermon had some good ideas they hadn't pulled together very well. When I went to collect Jay from Sunday School I mentioned that we were having mechanical problems and Claudia who had travelled with her family around Australia in a bus in 2009 offered help if we needed it. Later we found ourselves in a little service station buying fluids for Frankie when she walked past and offered for us to park overnight in their carport. I took her number and thanked her, promising to call if we got stuck. We then moved onto the info centre to top up our water supply. A market was set up behind the centre and who should we run into but Paula and Mark and their children Ava and Henry. Mark kindly bought me a Chai Latte and we sat down together whilst the children played and chatted and prayed together. God works in mysterious ways is no blithe saying. They had been praying in the days previous that our paths would cross again and Mark in particular was a great source of comfort to me. I left them feeling greatly encouraged and will catch up with them in Tom Price all going well. Mark suggested I call the NRMA to look at Frankie which I did. The RAC guy seemed to think it might be a universal joint on the tail shaft. Definitely best to stop in town and see a mechanic. After getting no reply to my call I went past Claudia's on the hope of finding them at home. They graciously invited us to stay. The winds are gale force tonight and we are somewhat sheltered in the lee-side of the house. But of course God knew the winds were coming and I have seen His hand at work all day guiding us in the places he wants us to be.
11th July 2011
First job of the day was to take Frankie to a mechanic to get a diagnosis. After taking it for a ride and putting it on the hoist Travis determined that the gear box needs reconditioning but he can't fit us in until next Monday. NRMA tried to get me into a caravan park but being school holidays they were all chockas. This afternoon we went for a walk to the skate park. I was also pleased to be able to resurrect the iPad with 240V.
12th July 2011
This morning was boring chores like washing and shopping. This evening we joined with the Anglican church to farewell bishop David and Maureen Mulready.




Lachlan the minister and his wife Bec are a lovely young couple and held in high regard by their parishioners. It was great to visit the church that some of the young men from Norwest Anglican had helped to construct.
13th July 2011
This morning we went to the op shop Mrs Macs. With no general clothes shops in town it is a popular way of recycling clothes through the community whilst raising money for local charities. We then stopped in at Eunice's for morning tea. A lovely old lady who has been in Exmouth since the 60's it was very interesting chatting with her. This afternoon the kids watched movies and played computer games.
14th July 2011
Claudia invited a couple of friends around this morning for morning tea which was enjoyable.




After lunch we went for a drive out to the lighthouse, turtle centre and to the wreck of the Mildura. The rock pools around the shore were really interesting. At first it looks like there's nothing in them but as you sit quietly things start to move. Of particular interest was a very well camouflaged hairy crab (can you spot him in the photo below).




Dinner tonight was some beautiful fish Mark had caught. Whenever stocks get low in their freezer he just heads out fishing to restock.
15th July 2011
Spent a lovely morning snorkelling at Lakeside on Ningaloo Reef. Jay was feeling a bit off colour so we cut the morning short and brought him home. The afternoon has been spent catching sick and trying to keep his feverish body cool. Poor little sausage.
16th July 2011
Jay's fever broke through the night and he slept reasonably soundly. We took things slow this morning. I wanted to be sure breakfast was going to stay down and he badly needed rehydrating. So we had a morning of cartoons in Frankie. The Dixons were having a quiet day too so Jay spent most of the day watching DVD's which was probably a good thing. This evening Sam came over again and we had great fun after dinner playing "watch the tea" and "Scatergories".
17th July 2011
Keen to get to church we farewelled the Dixons and drove the two blocks to the Anglican church. This mornings sermon was on Job Chapter 1. After church I moved our stuff out of Frankie and into the church. With a full kitchen, shower, toilets and a couple of single beds in the meeting room we will be very comfortable here until Frankie is fixed.
Having offered to cook dinner for the Edwards I prepared macaroni cheese. Just as I was fifnshing up Lachlan offered to take us with his family to the beach. We went onto the West side of the Cape.




The water was lovely and warm today. After a swim I went beach combing. The rocks were really interesting. You could clearly see the imprints of corals in the exposed limestone. We returned home and enjoyed dinner together before heading off to bed.
18th July 2011
This morning Frankie went to Travis to have his gear box pulled out. When I returned I set about weeding the side passage next to the church. With my chores done we were free to go exploring on our bikes this afternoon. Passing through the keys area we went to the mariner. We clambered over the limestone blocks to the end of the breakwater. We could see a wide variety of tropical fish both large and small just off the breakwater. Dolphins came cruising into the mariner causing a ruckus amongst the seagulls. Continuing our ride along the gulf side of Exmouth we eventually came out near Simmo's ice-cream van necessitating a stop for refreshments. With an oven at my disposal it was a much craved baked dinner tonight before retiring to bed where we watch Veggie Tales on a projection screen.
19th July 2011
This mornings chores involved washing down the windows and then sweeping sand into the cracks in the pavers Lachlan had just finished laying. After lunch I received a text from Claudia so we rode over to see them. We joined them for a game of Putt-Putt with Claudia taking top honours. With Zumba rocking the church Jay and I had pizza at The Thirsty Camel across the road. On returning to the church we settled down to watch "Faith Like Potatoes".
20th July 2011
With the washing in the machine and assurances from Travis that Frankie would be ready before lunch I joined in with the midweek communion service while Jay watched Narnia DVD's. After church my patience was tried again as I waited for the call to collect Frankie. Eventually it came and I went to collect him. I was concerned that the original noise I'd gone in with was still there and gear changes were difficult. Travis assured me that all was well but I continued to worry all afternoon until I felt physically sick. Bec rounded up a friend with a bit of mechanical knowledge to go and talk to Travis but even after talking with him I wasn't convinced. I planned to go back in the morning with my concerns but when I took off the next morning things seemed better so I farewelled Bec, Emily and Tim then went around to say our goodbyes to Claudia, Leilani, Khye and Monique. Still with a sense of anguish but with nothing specific I could take back to Travis I left the Coral Coast.




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