Expecting to have trouble finding accommodation we arrived in Broome early and set about finding a caravan park with spaces left. Our second attempt, at Cable Beach caravan park, secured a spot, then we set off to explore. Starting in the heart of the town we did a bit of grocery shopping. It's rather unnerving when jumbo jets seemingly skim the roofs of the shops as they land at the airport. We grabbed a couple of Kebabs in an Egyptian themed cafe before moving onto the Pearl Luggers museum.
The hour long tour traced the history of the pearling industry in Broome. From it's dubious beginnings when Aboriginal men, woman and children were used as slave labour to swim, with no equipment or protective covering, to depths of up to 20 metres to collect the large pearl shells, through the glory days of the Japanese divers fitted out in huge suits and heavy helmets and weights, to the scuba divers from the mid seventies and finally the pearl farms of today. Until the seventies the mortality rate for divers was extraordinarily high.
Dangers included sharks, whales which occasionally became entangled in the lifelines or cut them with their barnacle encrusted bodies, bending over too far so that the weights pulled them face down onto the seafloor where they would be dragged for hours behind the pearl luggers hitting rocks and corals, with no way of ascending to the surface until they would be cut adrift, pressure related illnesses and of course the bends. And after all that if you survived the days work only one in five thousand shells contained a pearl.
This was considered a bonus as the market was for the mother of pearl from the shell itself. Used for buttons and as decorative inlay in a variety of items the mother of pearl was highly sought until the depression made it a luxury item. Of course now the farms purposely seed the pearl shells with an irritant to encourage the growth of a pearl. Long rope lines with cages hanging into the ocean are hauled up, cleaned and regularly checked to ensure the best possible chance of developing a pearl. The large tides and nutrient rich waters of the coastline around Broome are the ideal conditions for the pearl culture. At the conclusion of the tour we sampled pearl meats which sells for $100/kg fresh in Australia but as much as $600/kg dried in Asian markets. Back in the showroom we were permitted to hold a large pearl worth over $100 000.
Continuing our exploration of the area we headed out to Gantheaumer Point where the low tide revealed one of three sets of dinosaur prints in the limestone rock-bed. On our return to the caravan park we cooled off in the lovely swimming pool.
31st July 2011
The Anglican church in Broome it located in a lovely old white timber church well designed for the tropical location. At this time of the year tourists double the congregation's numbers. Another Moore college graduate leads this flock and consequently the teaching was well presented and meaty. Attracted by the colourful markets after church we browsed the stalls which had some unusual and attractive wares. After a rushed lunch back at camp the mini bus collected us for a tour of Willie Creek Pearl farm.
Following an informative talk about current methods of pearl farming we enjoyed an afternoon tea of damper before taking a boat ride to see how the pearls are farmed. I was glad I'd opted to be driven out to the farm as the road was very corrugated and sandy. On the return journey we were thrilled to see three brolgas on the salt plain. With the sun dipping towards the horizon we walked to Cable Beach. The tide was at it's lowest ebb exposing some interesting rock pools with nudibrancs and feathered sea stars. The sun reflected in the long stretch of sand created a photographers dream.
1st August 2011
Leaving Broome behind we continued along highway 1 arriving at Lake Ellendale mid afternoon. Created when the adjoining highway was built up above the flood levels the lake, on a cattle station, made a refreshing pool to beat the afternoon heat. We met an interesting character in camp. Neil has been travelling the country for fifteen years including going around once on a pushbike and twice on a motorised pushbike. A fount of bushie knowledge, we enjoyed listening to his stories. He cooked us a beautiful spinach and ricotta filo pastry dish and fruit and cinnamon damper in his camp oven.
2nd August 2011
After a couple of days of rising temperatures in the engine I noticed that some coolant was leaking so it was into the mechanic at Fitzroy Crossing for a repair job. Whilst we waited we gathered info at the tourist information centre and spent some time watching a talented artist working with glass. We got Frankie back in time to zip out to Gieke Gorge for the afternoon boat trip up the river.
With numerous freshwater crocodiles lining the bank we cruised a couple of k's up the river past walls of ancient reef systems. It's mind boggling how much water rushes through the gorge during the wet season, clearly marked on the gorge wall. Too tired to continue to the campsite I'd picked out for the night we settled instead for a spot in the Crossing Inn caravan park. It's been pretty rowdy down at the pub, I hope it doesn't drag on into the night.
3rd August 2011
After a false start today where I had to return to Fitzroy Crossing to collect the water cap and keys I'd left behind we continued along Highway 1 for 180 kms stopping at Mary Pool rest area. Arriving around 11am we picked a spot under a shady ghost gum. As the day progressed the campsite filled up until around 100 vehicles had crowded into the area. Walks along the river, chatting with the neighbours, schoolwork, building a bower birds nest and playing with the other kids in camp filled in the afternoon and evening.
4th August 2011
I'm often glad I don't have an itinerary to stick to or I would miss some great places to stay. After topping up our fuel at Halls Creek we took the Duncan Hwy (a corrugated dirt and gravel road that goes through to beyond Kununurra) into China Wall.
Looking like a miniature Great Wall of China this sub vertical quartz vein protrudes up to 6m from the surrounding surface. This hard quartz is resistant to weathering and is visible from here to the Bungle Bungles. Further down the road we found the turnoff to Caroline Pool and here ended our excursion for today. After a bumper wet season the pool is still very full and made a perfect swimming hole on a hot day. Attempting to pack up camp were two single mums travelling together with their three children. Jay soon befriended the two eight year old boys and headed for the water and granite rock walls of the pool.
The water was refreshingly cool and clean. After a dip and some lunch I went to chat with a group of picnickers. In town for an Aboriginal Christian conference together with about 600 other attendees from around Australia they had come down to the pool on their free afternoon. Two of the Aboriginal woman were fishing nearby so I grabbed my reels and went to learn from them. On arriving at the pool they'd gone in search of frogs under the rocks downstream to use as bait. With three frogs to get them going they were soon pulling in fresh water perch. They kept a couple of small ones for bait and soon had about eight on a stick. Using a little of their bait I followed their example and over the course of the afternoon pulled in three for our dinner threading them onto a stick to keep them from jumping back in. They cooked up beautifully and made a tasty dinner. Jayden spent most of the afternoon creating the lost city of Atlantis out of rocks, sticks and debris. Creative arts - box ticked!
5th August 2011
Arising early I went in search of wildlife. I'd hoped to see some rock wallabies as it was the perfect location but nothing was about. I've heard that the exceptionally big wet season last year killed off a lot of wildlife. We certainly haven't seen much since crossing the Tropic of Capricorn. My early start was rewarded with some great light as the sun rose and reflected off the red walls.
Jay continued with his Lost City of Atlantis project with Falcon before we reluctantly departed. We headed straight for Spring Creek knowing that if we didn't get in early again it was likely to become very overcrowded. Finding a shady spot we set up camp and I proceeded to sus out the plans of the other campers with 4WDs. I'm very keen to get into the Bungle Bungles. I was chatting with the couple on one side about it when the camper on the other side offered to take us in with them the next day. We gratefully accepted. During the afternoon we wandered up to look into helicopter flights over the Purnululu N.P. They were all booked out which made the decision easy. We returned to camp and went wading up Spring Creek in search of the warm spring. Failing to find it we had leaf races back to camp. With tummies full of dinner we joined our neighbors around the campfire and roasted marshmallows before bed.
6th August 2011
With Dave the taxi driver at the wheel and his wife Kay by his side we trekked into the Purnululu National Park and the Bungle Bungles.
Two and a half hours of corrugation, river crossings and dirt and we arrived at our destination. We commenced by eating lunch then Jay and I took off hiking. After walking the Dome Track we went into Cathedral Gorge which is where the Australian Children's Choir did their bit for the Qantas ad. Here we caught up with Dave and Kay. Both have significant health issues, diabetes, heart and in Kay's case in remission from Leukemia. They have sold up the family home and plan to travel for as long as their health will allow. We raced on to do the walk to Picaninny Creek lookout.
This gave a great overview of the spectacular striped domes of the Bungle Bungles which are layers of sandstone and Cyanobacteria. We arrived back at the car just after our travel companions. After catching our breath we drove to the other side of the range to see Echidna Gorge. The rock here was quite different from the domes at the other end but no less striking. Towering walls of conglomerate rock made up of sandstone and large river pebbles arose 200m into the blue sky. Echidna Chasm is a slim fissure in the rock in places no more than 50cm wide. We made it back to the car as the sun lit up the cliffs a deep orange-red.
With the day dwindling and a lot of bumpy road to navigate before we got back to camp we headed off. It was night time well and truly before we arrived back in camp and Dave did a great job driving us safely home along the windy 4WD track in the dark.
7th August 2011
This morning we made our way into Kununurra.
I was keen to stay at the show ground overflow camp as I knew they had free washing machines and I had a lot of red dirt to get out of the clothes and bedding. However with not all the spots taken in the caravan parks I had to kill some time so they would fill up before we were allowed to utilise the showground. Driving back along the highway we detoured into The Zebra Rock Gallery and Cafe. Set on the Ord river this was a great place to beat the heat and dust. After touring the gallery we went down to the jetty to feed the catfish and barramundi. The catfish were thick as we threw in some bread. They are ugly looking things and I don't think I could come at eating one. Jay chatted to the cockies as I sipped on a mango smoothie and munched on a slice of orange and pineapple cake. Moving to the workshop Jay delighted in dipping all the raw statues into water to reveal the beautiful colours of the zebra rock. On the way back into town we stopped at the Ord River diversion dam.
There is still a huge amount of water sitting in the dam after the bumper wet season. Not sure what happens if it's still so full come this wet season. By the time we got back into town everything was full and we found a spot in the shade at the showground. Jay was pleased there were so many kids about and vanished for the rest of the afternoon.
8th August 2011
Today was another catchup day for me. Shopping, cleaning Frankie inside and out and three loads of washing. Whilst in town we went to the Argyle diamond showroom to see the rare pink diamonds found exclusively in this region. A visit to an Aboriginal Art Showroom completed our cultural experience in Kununurra.
Jay spent the day collecting and caring for a brood of green tree frogs with the others kids and playing on the oval. It has been very hot and still today and I was glad we had power so I could run the air conditioner.
9th August 2011
The day was heating up quickly as we left at 7:45 thinking we had a big days drive in front of us. Wanting to see Lake Argyle we turned off the main road. The ranges were beautiful heading into the Lake. A stop at Diversion Creek to photograph the torrent flowing beneath the bridge revealed half a dozen large freshwater crocs sunning themselves on the banks.
We arrived at Lake Argyle resort and caravan park around 9:00am and went for a sticky beak at the infinity pool which other travellers had told us about. After enquiring about boat tours Jayden convinced me to stop for the night. We booked into the sunset tour and were escorted to our site. Deciding that a bike ride would be a good way to view the dam we sped down the hill. The scenery defies description. Red ranges surrounding the calm waters of Lake Argyle extended off into the distance. Interesting ripples from a few boats broke the still waters.
Rarely have I seen such beauty from a man-made construction, however the Lake has enhanced an otherwise dry and featureless landscape. The return journey back up the hill was hard work in the baking sun. Knowing that a swim awaited us at the end kept us going. The infinity pool is an edgeless pool overlooking the lake.
It appears that the pool and lake are connected. It was certainly a great place to cool off and chill out. As soon as we'd eaten lunch we moved into the lounge area to watch a DVD about the dam's construction which was completed in 1972. A bus collected us for the short drive down to the boat launching area. The Triple J tour of the lake was very interesting. Built to provide irrigation for agricultural lands it has the potential to open up 70 000 hectares of land for food crops. Trapping the huge volumes of water from the wet season that flow into the Ord River, the statistics about flow rates and capacity are mind boggling.
The tour took us past crocodile bay where we sighted several more freshies. Usually freshies only get to about 2m long but here in the biggest billabong in Australia they now grow to a whopping 4m. We also saw some Euros and plenty of interesting birdlife. As the sun set over the ranges in a muted orange we stopped in the middle of the lake and those willing jumped in for a swim.
At 22 degrees the water was pleasantly cool. Jay jumped in but I opted to stay aboard and nibble on cheese and crackers so I could watch the sunset. On our return to camp a singer was entertaining the visitors in the beer garden so we ordered fish and chips for dinner and relaxed in the cool of the evening. When the show was over and with my census form completed and handed in we went home to Frankie. Jay spotted creatures jumping around the garden. We strongly suspected young cane toads and a zealous geriatric gypsy produced a spray bottle of Dettol which purportedly kills them by dehydration. We didn't get nearly as far as I'd planned today but it was a wonderful day of interest and beauty. I'm glad we stopped.
10th August 2011
Our time in the Kimberley's was drawing to a close. Arising with the birds I went to the infinity pool to watch the sunrise and observe some of the huge variety of birdlife in the park. We were on the road by 8am and heading for the WA/NT border.
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