The Top End - Northern Territory

10th August 2011
After crossing the NT border I powered on to cover some distance eventually coming to a stop at Vince Connolly Crossing Limestone Creek. It's hot and humid but otherwise unremarkable.
11th August 2011
Now that we're on Northern Territory time the sun rose at the much more civilised hour of 7am. We were on the move again by 8am heading into Katherine. It's a bit sad when you get excited by fuel prices but at 80 cents a litre less than the previous stop it's cause for celebration. With the tank full we progressed to the Katherine Hot Springs.




This lovely little oasis on the edge of town was perfect for a morning swim to sooth away the travel tension. We both would have stayed all day if given half a chance. At 32 degrees it is comfortably warm but still refreshing. Realising I finally had communication capability for the first time since Broome I phoned home to let everyone know I was still alive and kicking. The obligatory visit to the Information Centre and a bit of shopping out of the way and we were moving north towards Pine Creek. Acting on advise from other campers I'd picked out Pussycat Flats (Pine Creek turf club) as our overnight destination. When we pulled in I contemplated continuing but decided the devil you know may be better than the devil you don't and stayed put.




It's redeeming feature was a very impressive bower hidden amongst the gardens. We also helped feed and water a couple of rodeo horses. Chatting with the lady who was caring for them I learned that they belonged to the NT Rodeo Queen who was in Townsville defending her titles.
12th August 2011
Another early start to the day to beat the heat. Driving into Kakadu we began our exploration with a short walk to Bukbukluk lookout.




Often overlooked due to it's rather common appearance, this bushland is home to a vast array of flora and fauna, the greatest diversity in the park. An hour up the road brought us to Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre. Well presented, this informative display tells about the traditional way of life in Kakadu and the changes that have been brought about by European settlement. A little further on we came to Gadudju Lodge Coorinda. For ease of access to the tours I'd planned, we booked into the caravan park on site and made camp under some shady trees. The afternoon was then spent relaxing by the resort pool before getting ready for the sunset tour of Yellow Waters.




With so much water still in the rivers and billabongs the tour was very interesting with plenty of wildlife to observe. The two hour tour culminated in us watching the sunset over the billabong which was enhanced by the smoke haze from the bushfires which smoulder around the park at this time of the year.




13th August 2011
We were up very early this morning but it proved to be a false start. As we were booked into the sunrise cruise I was up at 5:20am. Once Jay was up it was quickly apparent that we wouldn't be going anywhere today. Sick with the trots and an upset stomach we postponed both our tours and lay low for the day to allow him to recover. He spent a lot of the day in bed but when it eventually got too hot to stay in the bus we moved down to the jetty at Home Billabong complete with pillow and blanket to rest and read where it was cool.




14th August
After yesterday's false start we tried again. Up before the birds this time Jay awoke feeling spritely so it was off on the shuttle bus to Yellow Waters Billabong. With the moon setting on one side and the sun rising on the other it was a photographers paradise.




Huge flocks of Magpie Geese flew overhead as we scouted the riverbanks for wildlife. We didn't have to look too hard. You know you're seeing something unusual when the guide whips out his camera. We observed over 25 different bird species, saltwater crocs and feral pigs. The highlights from a bird-watchers perspective were Brolga, Jabiru, a juvenile black bittern and a little kingfisher.




Back at Frankie we whiled away the morning playing games before joining the Animal Tracks Safari in the afternoon. We were picked up in a 4WD Landcruiser transporter and taken onto the property of some local aboriginal people. The property is a water buffalo farm to provide meat to the indigenous population. We met Patsy, who over the course of the afternoon taught us a lot about the local bush tucker.




Throwing a couple of barrumundi and magpie geese into the esky we were off. We started with water lilies. The stalks tasted like celery and the heads were full of a bitter seed that can be ground down to make a type of flour.




Heading off into the bush we stopped at a billabong to collect mussels from the roots of the mangrove trees. They were hard to find and with only a handful it was time to move on. Next stop was to collect acacia leaves to flavour our dinner and sheets of paper back to act as a cover over the fire.




Patsy then collected some green ants crushed them up and gave each of us a small portion. As a medicine used for headaches and stomach aches we could only have a little, too much would make us sick in the same way taking too much modern medicine could also make you sick. Further along the track we stopped again at a part of the floodplain that had been dug up by the feral pigs. Like us they were looking for water chestnuts.




Once our paperback coolamon was filled we drove the remaining distance to our cooking site overlooking the billabong. Thousands of magpie geese lined the waters edge and flew around the floodplain. The work wasn't done yet, the fire was lit as we plucked the magpie geese for our dinner.




Once the fire had burnt down, the coals were prepared and the meats put directly onto the coals with hot rocks on top. Sheets of paperbark were placed over the top and hot coals shoveled onto the top. The innards from the geese were put out a short distance away where the awaiting whistling kites flocked to get an easy feed. As the meal cooked we made string for weaving baskets and watched the sun set over the waterway then tucked into our meal. The magpie goose was particularly tasty and an unusual colour and texture. I had expected it to be like chicken but it was a dark meat more akin to beef than poultry.




From the coals small fires were placed around the campsite to prevent the mossies from making a meal of us. With darkness falling and the mosquitoes becoming more insistent we quickly packed up and headed back to Cooinda. Listening to Patsy talk was very interesting although she was quite difficult to understand at times. Sean's commentary likewise was eye opening and gave me an insight into kinship and relational and cultural laws and expectations. I now have a better understanding as to why many of the indigenous problems exist, but it seems like an impossible task to address in modern society.
15th August 2011
Leaving Cooinda we moved further into Kakadu. In light of the learning we had received yesterday another look at the Warradjum Aboriginal Cultural Centre was all the more interesting. From there we moved into the stone country on the edge of the Arnham Land escarpment. We viewed rock art at Nourlangie and listened to a ranger talk.




Surprisingly, I ran into Melissa with whom I'd attended Mother's Group when Jayden was born. They are spending this school term travelling throughout the Red Centre, Top End and Queensland. Escaping from the midday heat, we spent some time in Bowali Visitors Centre looking at their displays. A trip into Jabiru failed to find Autogas for Frankie. Jay had some lunch but I was starting to feel a bit dodgy and had lost my appetite. Our last stop for the day was Ubirr rock art site.




After walking the circuit ourselves we went around a second time listening to the ranger talks. With the perpetual smoke from bush fires around the park at this time of the year, sunsets are a big thing. It's one thing I'll never grow tired of though so we hung around until the sun had set over the wetlands, then bolted for the campground before it got too dark and the mossies attacked again.




By now I was feeling pretty bad, headachy, nauseous and severe aches in the joints. I fed Jay and then put myself to bed. Sleep was elusive as my body ached all over. With dingoes howling and feral pigs scratching about even a trip to the toilet took on the feel of an adventurous journey. I was relieved when morning returned.
16th August 2011
Thinking that a trip to the doctor might be in order if I didn't improve, and fearing that I had the symptoms of mosquito born illnesses, I dosed up with Heron and kept trekking. We stopped at lunchtime at Window on the Wetlands. We enjoyed this interesting display in the air-conditioned building then had lunch in the shade of a fig tree. Arriving in Darwin about 3pm we made camp at Shady Glen Tourist Park and took the opportunity to relax by the pool and catch up with our Internet activities. I was relieved to be feeling much better by now.
17th August 2011
The RAAF fighter planes took off with a roar first thing this morning signaling the start to our day. Driving into the city of Darwin, which still resembles a large regional town rather than a capital city, we took a drive along the esplanade and past Parliament House. From there it was onto the Botanical Gardens for a stroll around the shady trees. At The Northern Territory Museum and Art Gallery we perused exhibits about local wildlife including ancient megafauna, got an insight into the effects Cyclone Tracey had on Darwin, met Sweetheart a 5.8m taxidermy crocodile which drowned after sedation during a relocation operation, and admired the works of indigenous artists. We topped up the groceries at Casuarina shopping centre then made our way to Leanyer water park.




This free facility has 3 waterslides, a water playground and large lagoon style swimming pool. It was a great place to beat the Darwin heat and humidity. We made use of the free BBQs to cook our dinner, then hit the road as the park closed at 7pm. With no set destination in mind I headed down the highway towards Litchfield N.P. keeping and eye out for a suitable campsite. Around 8:30 we pulled into Manton Dam. We were quickly inundated with bugs. The were sneaking in from every little entrance they could find. Eventually we had to close everything up and swelter as the mossies in particular were very persistent. The bug spray assisted in a mass annihilation before we got any peace.
18th August 2011




It quickly became apparent why we'd had so much trouble with bugs the previous night when the sun arose and revealed that we were parked along the rim off the dam. Surveyed prior to, and built at the beginning of WWII to supply Darwin with drinking water as well as water for the naval vessels, Manton Dam was superseded in 1972. When Cyclone Tracey hit in 1974 and the current water supply was affected, the old 1939 diesel pumps were fired up and clean water was once more available in Darwin within 48 hours. I took a stroll around the water's edge. Freshwater and saltwater crocs inhabit the area so there was no way I was going in at the designated swimming area. It was then only a short drive through Batchelor into Litchfield. We arrived at the magnetic termite mounds just in time to hear the ranger talk.




The mounds, which sit in the floodplain, are aligned north-south to minimize the amount of sun during the midday heat. The termites move from one side of the mound to the other as the day heats up. Just out of the wet season water's reach are the cathedral mounds. Built by a different type of termite these huge structures can reach up to 7 or 8 meters tall. Another short drive brought us to Florence Falls.




The walk down to the falls took us past a family of short-eared rock wallabies well camouflaged amongst the rocky slopes. The plunge pool was busier than Bondi. Cooling off in the clean clear waters we joined the throng. Continuing the walk along the creek we passed through monsoon forests to dry savannah woodlands. When the track returned us to the carpark we grabbed some lunch and found a lovely spot on the creek. A little further down the road was Buley Rockpools.




Although space was again at a premium in the waterholes we spent the remainder of the afternoon enjoying this oasis. A goanna and small olive python created a bit of excitement. About 5pm we moved into the campsite and then I walked the 500m back to the pools to escape the heat until the sun set. It was much more pleasant with all those noisy tourists gone for the day. The bugs were pretty bad again tonight necessitating the bus to be closed up.




19th August 2011
Stopping briefly, we did the circuit walk around Tolmer Falls before making the drive around to Wangi Falls and heading straight into the camp area. I'm glad we did so as it quickly filled up. Wangi Falls is a beautiful big waterhole with two falls plummeting 60m from the dry open forest above into the cool monsoon forest area below.




As such, the water is a comfortable temperature because it gets heated as it flows over shallow creeks and warm rocks at the top of the plateau. A deep hole near the bottom of the falls collects the warm water making a natural tepid bathtub. Jay was excited to run into friends met in the Spring Creek campsite near the Bungle Bungles and again in Kununurra showground. Soon after we'd spotted them, the Bakers also turned up. We hadn't seen them since Carnarvon. All the kids joined forces and had a great afternoon jumping off rocks and playing in the Wangi Falls plunge pool. Again it was great to be able to hang around until everyone else had left and see the falls in a more natural setting without hordes of tourists. The sun lit up the walls spectacularly. We joined Nicole, Ian and their children for a combined dinner. With my resources running low it took a bit of creative cookery to make a meal designed for two to spin out to feed seven but I managed. With a bit of a breeze to move the air the night wasn't nearly as hot and sleep came easily.
20th August 2011
I always like it when we've decided from the start to stay put a couple of nights in one place as I can set up the awning and get a few things done like the washing that I wouldn't ordinarily do. So with the chores out of the way there was nothing else to do other than swim and relax by the waterfall.




Late in the afternoon the Bakers joined us for a swim and a BBQ dinner before the mossies drove us indoors.
21st August 2011
Back on the road again today, we returned to Batchelor and took a look at the castle built to beautify a troublesome rock outcrop in the local park. I picked up a few more supplies and we left Litchfield behind. Our next stop was for fuel at Adelaide River. We browsed the small Sunday markets and were tempted by the baked goods stall. It seemed to take longer than I'd expected to get to Edith Falls in the Nitmuluk National Park.




Arriving about 1:30pm we had lunch and headed for the plunge pool. It was much bigger than Wangi but not as spectacular,with only one of the smaller falls still flowing. We got a bit freaked out during our swim when I smelled the distinctive fishy smell of crocodile and quickly evacuated. The kiosk staff assured me that it was probably only a freshie but we aren't going to take the risk. The family camped next to us are from Kellyville and Jayden has some new playmates.
22nd August 2011
Biding our time until we could return to Katherine for Frankie's service,we were booked in for another night at Edith Falls. Before the day heated up we set off on the loop track to the top two pools. They were very picturesque.




We stopped for a swim and explore above the waterfall before descending back down the hot dry track to camp. The afternoon was spent lazing by the bottom plunge pool. I finally got Jay to play Phase 10 with me after dinner and once he started winning he was hooked.
23rd August 2011
Passing through Katherine we moved out to Nitmuluk National Park (Katherine Gorge). You can't see much of the gorge from the visitor centre and the walks would be too long and hot at this time of the year so we booked a two man canoe for the following day. The trees around here are full of red-winged flying foxes.




Agile wallabies graze the grassy areas and an assortment of interesting birds including the blue faced honeyeater and blue-winged kookaburra grace the trees. The resort pool beckoned as the heat of the day reached a peak. As the day began to cool and the sun dipped towards the horizon I walked up to the lookout to watch the final moments of the day and another N.T. smoke haze enhanced sunset.




24th August 2011
Pay back time! I tried to make as much noise as possible as we walked past the roosting red-winged flying foxes, maybe then they'll know what it feels like and have a little more consideration towards us at 3am tomorrow morning. When the screeching had died down and the birds took up the chorus we were on the move for a full day of canoeing the Nitmiluk gorge. Separated by rockbars and rapids, the gorge is broken into a series of nine definable sections before it deteriorates into a series of pools and waterholes. Day trippers are advised to only go as far as gorge four. Wanting to make the maximum distance and avoid the head wind that has been blowing up mid-morning I went flat out for the first half of the day.




We made the end of gorge three and then the portage was just too difficult for Jay and I to attempt so we walked partway up gorge four before returning to the canoe for some lunch. Having made such good time in the morning we were able to cruise back down the river at a much more leisurely pace, assisted by the current and the wind. Nevertheless, by the time we pulled in at the dock I'd put in eight hours of paddling over 13.2km of river and I'd had it. Jay, who'd only put in the occasional stroke here and there has happily gone off to play this evening as I sit here aching all over and drowning my sorrows in a glass of white.
25th August 2011
As the car was booked in for a service this morning we returned to Katherine early and then had a bite of breakfast at Maccas whilst catching up on Internet activities. It was a pleasant surprise when we returned for Frankie and the bill was less than we'd been quoted. Having completely depleted my supplies we did a big shop at Woolies before continuing down the highway. Everyone along the way has been raving over Bitter Springs in Elsey National Park in Mataranka, so that became our destination. Bubbling up through the limestone from a large aqueduct which extends to the Queensland border, the water could have been making it's way here for a thousand years. The spring is a comfortable 32 degrees as a result of the depth at which it flows through the earth.




With our newly acquired water noodles we entered the steadily flowing creek and floated downstream to the exit point a couple of hundred metres on. Walking back to the entrance point we completed this circuit a few times. At this time of the year the algae and vegetative mats are building up along the edges making it a bit pongy. Surprisingly though the water itself is amazingly clear giving a view into a tranquil underwater garden. Not many creatures do well in the low oxygenated water, however a few species of small fish and turtles make the waterway their home. During the wet season the vegetative matter is flushed away and the cycle begins over. After the big canoe trip yesterday it was wonderful to just drift along in the mineralized waters and allow the aches and pains to dissipate. Following the advice of a lady in the pools who regularly makes the trek through The Centre as part of the Variety Club Bash, we checked into Territory Manor caravan park. Having skipped lunch I was tempted to enjoy some freshly baked scones with jam and cream and an ice chocolate while Jay claimed an ice-cream with his winning Magnum stick. We wandered around the grounds enjoying the horses, wallabies, peacocks and blue-faced honeyeaters.




After a BBQ dinner we enjoyed another round of Phase 10 before retiring. The only spoiler in this idyllic location is the ugly screeching coming from the Aboriginal Community somewhere in the bushland across the road.
26th August 2011
The rodeo is coming to town on Saturday so we've decided to hang around until then. So with time to kill we did the tourist circuit of Mataranka. Starting in our own campsite with the Barra feeding we learned a lot about this iconic tropical waters fish.




Moving into the town centre (ten buildings along the Stuart Hwy) we continued our exploration. With a population of only 250, about half of whom lounged under the trees along the main street or had already hit the pub by 11am there isn't much to the town. We looked in the gemstone shop, museum and art gallery. The museum was interesting, especially the stories of some of the early pioneers to the area. Of course Mataranka is home to Elsey Station of "We of the Never Never" fame. We drove out to Mataranka Station where a replica of 'Elsey' which was used in the filming of the movie has been reconstructed.




The movie plays in Maluka's Bar each day at midday. We'd fortuitously arrived just in time, so with some hot chips from Annie's Kitchen we settled in to enjoy. Watching it in amongst the harsh landscape of the Territory gave it special significance. Once finished we continued down to the Mataranka thermal pools. During the war years soldiers dammed a small section of the creek to create a pool for the officers to relax in. More recently, the surrounding area has been cemented in making it even more pool-like. Bitter springs is definitely more pleasant from a natural perspective but I must say I liked swimming without the mats of rotting vegetation at Mataranka. We soaked for a couple of hours, Jay playing happily with Max from Bunbury, then returned to camp.




We had dinner in the on-site restaurant as my craving for a decent feed of meat and veggies out of the oven had again needed statiating. Sitting down to slow cooked lamb shanks and baked veggies was heaven. Jay had the honey and mint infused lamb cutlets and chips. We finished by sharing a serve each of homemade pecan pie and a lemon meringue pie that gave Nan's a run for it's money, coming in at a close second. I'd invited Del, the Variety Club Bash lady from the hot springs to join us for dinner. Now retired, this traveling spinster has led a very interesting life. As a Kimberley toad buster she gave Jay some pointers before he launched into a full frontal attack on the local cane toad population. He and latest friend Taylor collected about thirty toads in a very short space of time. Running from the dark bushes, gloved hand held aloft they proudly deposted their toads into the plastic bag which would be frozen for a minimum of five days to ensure the occupants were all dead. This is apparently is the most humane way to dispose of the ugly creatures.
27th August 2011
Taylor's family were parked next to us, affording Jay with easy access to a playmate for the day. We again watched the Barra feeding and then relaxed among the shady trees for the morning. The afternoon seemed to drag until it was time to head into the showground for the rodeo.




We started by looking at both stalls of paraphernalia, then moved into the arena area. The kids grabbed a ringside seat but with the dust and dirt flying into our faces I soon adjourned to the hill. I sat near a group of Aboriginal people. A couple of the ladies chatted with me but it soon became apparent that they were hoping to sponge a cigarette off me, or get me to buy them a beer as there were very tight restrictions on the bar. To be allowed to purchase at the bar you had to come in the main entrance pay your five dollars and get an arm band to identify you at the bar. As most of the indigenous spectators had come through the bushes from their reserve they didn't have bands to buy alcohol. Most of them had arrived intoxicated which didn't seem to help. It started getting ugly when the aboriginal men started accusing the woman of mingling with a white woman. They apparently started calling me names in their native tongue and my new 'friends' swore like troopers at the top of their lungs back at them. One of the woman spat on the rug I'd borrowed from a neighbour back in camp and seemed surprised when I asked her not to! I decided it was time to move back to the kids ringside. The rodeo was exciting and I would have liked to stay longer but had hitched a lift with Taylor's family and so had to leave when they did. Jay competed in the kids dance-off and won the boys title, earning him a victory lap around the arena on a horse with one of the big names in country rodeo.




There was even a boxing tent, although that mustn't have commenced until after the rodeo as there wasn't any action while we were there. When we got back to camp Jay and Taylor took off toad busting again. Jay collected 50 and Taylor 25. A quick shower to wash off the toad wee and bull dust and it was off to bed.
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